Видео

you can find a list of repair shops at site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html and the good people at JJ Short Associates (who do platens & feed rollers) are at www.jjshort.com/typewriter-platen-repair.php

holler at me on IG or FB, and we can figure it out. It’s definitely worth checking to see if there is a local shop, though, as shipping a typewriter is both expensive & risky. A list of repair shops (which i am on, incidentally, in the Texas section) can be found at site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html

they are indeed jam-packed! it’s amazing that they fit sooooo much engineering & so many features into such a tight form. If the Hermes 3000 can be the ‘Cadillac Of Typewriters’ then the Princess 300 is definitely the Porsche :)

no video on it, but to get those platens out: 1)remove the left knob 2)remove platen collar screws from R end of platen 3)pull R knob & platen rod out towards the right, twisting as you go 4)lift platen from R end, up & out 5)rejoice

yes & yes :)

@@TypewriterJustice I’ll bet it’s great. It looks brand new too like you said. I have an SM8 from 1966 that I absolutely love, but it’s a little bigger than I would want to carry around. It’s more of a ‘stay at home’ machine. I will have to keep an eye out for one of these. Olympia made such good stuff in the 60s and 70s. I think the quality is about the best you can get on a manual typewriter. You can just feel the quality the minute you start typing (if it’s in good working condition). Thank you again for the video. I enjoyed it.

fresh rubber on the platen will work wonders - there’s no such thing as a truly silent typewriter, but an SG1 with a new platen comes pretty darned close

slide the carriage all the way left, so you can see the right-rear corner; it should be on the metal frame, just to the right of the bell. you might need a flashlight or to wipe away some fluff, but it’s probably there :)

The functions this machine has along with the speed and build quality make it the clear winner for sitting at a typewriter for long periods. If there is a comparable machine in the same price range that doesn't take years to come across, I would like to know before I buy this one.

@campbellpaul in Germany, they're not so rare and expensive. You'd have to deal with shipping cost and the QWERTZ layout.

two platens from that batch went into my personal collection, and 7+ years they’re still just as good :)

@@TypewriterJusticeWell, yeah! Of course they are. It's only been 7 years. But how will they be in another 50? That's the real test! Get back to me when you can report that! 😁

@@bwhog if i’m still around in 50 years, i promise to report back ;)

i love me some PB Blaster, but Kroil won’t stink up the whole house ;)

My keys have silver around them, though. Either way, they're sexy, for sure. I need new rubber, though. *sigh*

nice! this is STILL one of my favorite models for regular use - i keep one out on a desk in my workshop for filling out invoices & tapping out poems over coffee :) they usually need new feed rollers(and the ribbon transport system can take some getting used to) but once you’re up & running they’re absolute tanks! congrats!

you don’t exactly get new parts, but rather you get new rubber installed on the existing platen core & roller mandrels, though feet are often replaced entirely depending on the model. the company i use for this is www.jjshort.com/typewriter-platen-repair.php

i don’t have one, but if anyone ever brings one in for repair, i’ll definitely shoot a video for it! the closest i’ve had to that so far is a ‘63 Model 14 ruclips.net/video/2GR2BtWCHdw/видео.htmlsi=tenzzgGSKVpy717v

my pleasure, friend :) best suggestion i have for Erika’s is to make sure you have proper thin-blade (yet still fairly wide) screwdrivers, because their screws are usually super tight & will strip if your driver is the wrong size; i thinned down a gunsmithing screwdriver on a grinding wheel so i can break the screws loose then switch to my regular drivers. also, invest in a can of AeroKroil - it’s worth every penny. have fun! and configurations on the 5, they’re fantastic machines :)

definitely not standard procedure, but it works :) given how uncommon these are in the wild, it’s not entirely surprising that your repair guy hadn’t seen one, and at a glance it IS hard to tell that it’s not a standard reverse mechanism…

don’t take it apart just yet, and >definitely< don’t take the carriage off! there are several different possible causes, and none of them require carriage removal to repair. First thing to check is the margin release key, since the ‘magic margin’ system leads to people often setting both margins right next to each other; hold down the Margin Release key while you try to move the carriage, and if it moves then voila! if not, there might actually be a problem. i have a video on a similar model that will familiarize you w all the controls ruclips.net/video/fZ2mqQoml74/видео.htmlsi=O099yNYbmV5pGQhv and there might actually be a repair shop near you - check the list at site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html

the platen is pretty easy on these, so have no fear. engage the index detent(silver lever, left end of the carriage) then remove the Left knob. after that you can loosen or remove the platen collar screws from the Right end of the platen, and then spin the right knob(which will also wiggle & spin the platen rod) as you pull the rod & Right knob out to the right. To reinstall, make sure the detent is still engaged then do everything you just did only backwards. holler if you get stuck!

@@TypewriterJustice I'm being dumb. I unscrewed both knobs but can't think what the collar part is, the manual only goes so far in labelling the parts. I don't think I should have unscrewed the right knob

@@bletheringfool put the R knob back on, then look at the little space between the platen & the end of the carriage - there is a small flange(the platen collar) that extends out from the platen, and there will be one or two ‘grub’ screws there which grip that same rod that the knob attaches to; remove those, then twist the R knob as you pull the rod out towards the right. once the platen rod is out, slide the carriage all the way to the right, and lift the platen up by the R end & take it out; to put it back in, engage the index detent(lever on the left end of the carriage) then repeat all the steps in reverse. holler if you get stuck! i’m on IG, btw - sometimes i miss youtube comments, but IG messages usually reach me(plus i can send you pictures of what i’m talking about)

@@TypewriterJustice I finally got this sorted. The job itself took about 5mins but the main concern was the bloody tiny screws that kept falling on my kitchen floor!! I can't thank you enough

for me it largely depends on how much coffee i’ve had :)

@@TypewriterJustice I also don't think I've ever been able to get a typewriter close to as clean as that. De-grimed, to be sure, but still with residue in various parts. Not spic and span like that one.

might want to look again, friend, it’s on there right - this was by no means my first Remington…err, i mean, rodeo ;)

ruclips.net/video/HlFifgeOZiU/видео.htmlsi=CgGh3MWpvRD95n-W

@@TypewriterJustice I am so sorry! The machine you are showing is different from the Remington Model Seven! The ribbon arrangement had changed by the time this machine was produced. You have this correct for the machine you show. It's just that I have seen so MANY people posting the ribbon threading in this way but for the Remington Noiseless Model Seven (which is done quite differently!) The typewriter you show here had done away with the complexity of some other Remingtons. The earlier version did not have the trailer post and so the tension was increased in the way I mentioned above instead. You have re-ribboned the particular machine here perfectly correctly!

@@mrpad0 yep! the Rem 7 is a whole different critter :)

@@TypewriterJustice Particularly the Remington Model Seven in 1936 compared to the Remington 5 of the early 40's. Iit's as confusing as Apple Mac differences!. Haha!!

they’re mean machines, for sure :)

nope! those are typically just on portable models. if your carriage isn’t moving, try the margin release key(MAR REL, right edge of keyboard) to see if that clears it; the KMM has ‘Magic Margins’ which are often mishandled. The owners manual for the KMM can be viewed at site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/RoyalKMM.pdf

mmmmmmaybe 🤔 send me a message on IG or FB or an email to typewriterjustice@gmail.com

happy to help! it’s difficult establishing connections on youtube, so please message me @typewriterjustice on IG, Threads, or FB; you can also send an email to typewriterjustice@gmail.com or find my cell number on the shop list at site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html

first i’ve heard of it, but it should be easy enough to test…hmm.

@@TypewriterJustice I've been scouring the internet for all the available user manuals, and have not seen a single mention of real silver on the key collars (is that what they're called?).... seems like they'd mention that. The bloke claiming his 1939 Erika M has silver key collars is highly unreliable regarding the rest of his online posts, so I'm basically trying to call "bull" here. I hate when people spread misinformation, and there are typewriter newbies who eat it up with a spoon because they just don't know better yet.

nice! you might get some use out of this link then site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html#manuals

once i had someone leave a comment saying my video had triggered their vertigo & made them vomit…ahhh, that was a fine day indeed ;) cheers!

@@TypewriterJustice lol. I just realized you posted this a whole 9 years ago!!! Seems like there's a typewriter revival happening...or maybe I'm just late to the game.

seriously?! i didn’t know that! crazy that with all the fabulous german machines he must’ve had around him he would have chosen a Remington 😂

they’re so svelte :)

you can find it at typewriterdatabase.com/olympia.61.typewriter-serial-number-database

1953 was the year of manufacturing of my SM2. My mother was born in1952! It's amazing how this machines remain fully functional through the decades. Thanks a lot@@TypewriterJustice

samsonite

the early series SC Floating Shift models are some of the best machines ever made, imho…performance, design, aesthetics, quality control, reliability, repairability, availability - they’re simply hard to beat. just my two cents, but for long form work i would take a cleaned/serviced SC Sterling over a similar quality Patria in a heartbeat; if you’ve never tried one then you’re in for a treat :)

if you DO, here’s a tip about the feed rollers: leave the assembly they sit in intact - you don’t have to completely take it apart to get them out! just loosen the nut/screw on each side enough to pry the roller shaft out, and leave that spring/screw bit intact.